I can't believe I'm even considering this but I may be selling my 71 Super. I've had it since new 12/31/70 and 9 years ago it had a full body off restoration. Its Shantung Yellow with a black interior. I'm just not using it. It sits in the garage under a cover for months on end. I have a brand new Jetta TDI thats sitting outside and I would like to get it in the garage. The Super runs great but I have had the typical shimmy problems. Actually I've had these from day one. Right now its good. I'm not even sure of a price yet but just wanted to see if there might be any interest. Its in John Gunnel's recent book on Volkswagens. I'm 59 now and ordered the car when I was 19 and got it when I was 20. We go back a long way! I'm in New Jersey.

Hi all,
I noticed today that the insulator on my condensor (the part that goes thru the distributor and you plug the points into) is melting.

I had to replace the condensor last week. I had a non-bosch condensor in there and my super wouldn't idle correctly.
I installed a Bosch condensor and it fixed the problem. But now..the melting issue.
Any ideas what could be causing this?

Stats:
71 Super
009 distributor installed
1600 cc stock engine


Thanks
G

Finally got the carpet in and went to fit some new cocoa mats..........Pax side and rear mats fit nicely, but the drivers side mat interferes with the accelerator pedal. Is it normal to have to adjust these kind of mats? I'm not sure how easy it'll be to cut thru one (they are VERY thick) and cutting it out around the pedal cluster would remove the cloth binding - would that cause the mat to fray over time?

Anyone else had this experience?

Thanks,

PD.

Hello. So, I went ahead and measured the gap between all of my valves as part of my ongoing effort to solve my 71 supers overheating and oil light coming on at low revs. Some were tight. She seemed to run for longer without heating up after I did that. Once I have the tools I'm going to do the timing.

However, on one of the valve arms there was a broken ring as marked in below illustration. The valve could be moved by hand up and down the rod a short way.



Is this a potentially serious issue?

hey people im restoring a 1303 1974 beetle . both of the heater channels and rear cross members are shot so have bought pair of each tho when iv got down and dirty cutting them out sizeing up the new heat channels and the rear cross members there seems to be a gap of about 5-7 mm so making it hard to weld is it possible there a part for the end of the channel that ive over looked or do i just to get the rubby mallet on it and beat it so theres no gap ?? ay input or help would be amazing as im 21 and this is my first project car
thanks grey

So, here is the story. AEF, my 15 year old daughter, has been working for about a year and had saved a small sum of money. The deal was we would pay half of the price of a “first car” and she set her mind on either a Beetle or a Bronco.

While on a summer vacation, she found a 1972 Super Beetle that she had to have. We got the car for about $825 and it ran. We had a few reasons for pushing her to the VW: (1) there are not many in our town and everyone will know who it is behind the wheel; (2) she wants to paint it black and pink – only reaffirms No.1; (3) it’s not really an off the road kinda car; (4) limited number of passenger capacity; (5) gets good gas mileage; and, (6) it’s a bit hard to sneak it out…as you can hear a VW coming and going! 

Then we made the 300 mile trip home in it. That was where we had a few problems. Seemed that there was an oil leak…well 13 quarters and a stop every 30 miles later we got it to the VW restorer.




Dino Denny did a wonder on this and yes the engine had to be replaced. It now runs smooth and fine. Not as fine as these, but still fine.

So, we are now in the process of learning how to restore/repair this new addition. Also, she has a year till she can drive it on her own. Our challenge comes in the fact that neither her nor I are mechanically inclined. THOUGH – much to our credit, we did replace the ignition cylinder today! We lost the set of keys that came with it and the choice was $100 with a locksmith or ~$30 with jbugs.com – we did the later and By Jove we got it to work. THANK GOODNESS FOR MANUALS.

We are joining this to post those newbie questions – and we will have a ton of them I am certain. In advance, thanks for the patience and help.

Hi there,

alongside with the restoration of my 1303 Cabriolet, I'm collecting information and some specific parts to replicate one of my favorite rally cars, the 1303S Salzburg Beetle. I have already found a good solid base to start with, I'm just negotiating the sale price of the car...
It has to be an "S" model because of the 1600cc and also because of the homologation that was made in FIA for the Group 2 cars.

Of course the engine will be tuned according to the original Salzburg Beetle, with IDA carburetors, 1599CC with aprox. 140hp and of course a Porsche 914 five speed gearbox and all the small details that make it so special

The objective of this project is to participate with a friend of mine, in the 2012 edition of the Portuguese Classic Cars Rally; here is the link for this year's Rally RPH

Hope you enjoy my Blog and the evolution of the Project The Salzburg Rallye Beetle

Cheers

PS: I also want to leave here congrats to the guys from rallybugs.com and salzburgkaefer.at for their fantastic websites full of knowledge and info on the Salzburg cars.

I am trying to rebuild the doors, I have two new scrapers in and secure, but i can not get the chrome upright of the vent window between them. does anyone have any tips for this? is it just a case of a bit of lube or is there a knack to it?

cheers

kev

Okay, so last June I bought a 1972 super with big plans. It was supposed to be done by this September to be used in my upcoming wedding in October. Well things happened, money wasn't there and it sat in my garage for a year.

Looks like now, I'll be putting the minimal into it to get it running well for the wedding use and then the big project starts in January.

Here's option 1

CB Performance Builder's Choice 140hp engine with dual 44mm IDFs matching manifolds and 1.5/8" exaust.

Option 2

CB Performance Builder's Choice 200hp engine with dual 48mm IDAs matching manifolds and 1.3/4" exaust.

I am leaning toward option 2, well, because I'm a guy. That said, this will not be a track car. Sure I will be running it down the track once or twice a year but really this will be a weekend cruiser for me and my wife to be. Is this overkill? I want plenty of power on tap, I want to be able to pass anytime I wish, I don't want to worry about upcoming hills or what have you, and I wouldn't mind suprising the odd "ricer" who thinks he's all that. I guess I'm just looking for a couple opinions from those of you out there running similar set ups. Will I need to upgrade my transmission and clutch? What are my options? The guys at CB are awesome to talk to and very helpful, but I am looking for real world opinions. Price is not a concern, I just want to do it right the first time.

Either option I will also be doing discs on all corners, rebuilt front end and lowering struts, brake lines and what have you, and full interior. This will be a ground up restore. I'm just really back on forth on which engine kit I'm going to go with. I have 4 months to make my decision and get all the parts ready to get to work.

Thanks guys.

Ok, So about 3 years ago my bug lost an oil filter while going down the highway. I know for a fact that the cam and lifters are trashed. The Rods are still good, just trashed the bearings. My crankshaft however has flat spots on the "back side" of the rod journals on cylinders #3 and #4. The metal has mushroomed out just a tad and you can tell the metal is worn down a ways. What I'm wondering is has anyone had any luck with machining their crank down? What type of life will I expect. This will be going back into a 1776. Ball Park of what it costs?


If this is a bad Idea, or not worth the money, I've been told that you can run either a 74 or 76mm crank with standard pistons. Is this true? I currently have a set of 5.5inch bugpack chromoly forged H-beam rods. Not sure how they will factor in.

Thanks Guys!

i've got a '71 i need to find a new home, i've had it for awhile it is my daily driver from spring thru fall and garaged the rest of the year (can get pretty cold in ohio). hate to sell her but a with a new baby i'm needing the money. it's been a great car, runs awesome!
i'm located in dayton ohio if anyone is interested call or text 937-694-2938, asking 3200 or best offer
view photos at http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc382/...super%20beetle/

My 75 VW was not driven for about two months. When I drove it recently the left signal operated normal until I pressed the brake pedal, it began to blinked rapidly and then slowed to almost a complete stop. I checked the bulbs and checked the wiring from the fuse block to see if there was anything grounding out. I checked the wiring at the stering column but couldn't detect anything there either. The right signal is unaffected.
Any advice????? Thanks.