Its Everywhere (rust)- Underbody Options

[Coreyrocknroll]

First of all, I am a newbie to the site. This place is awesome! I am in the middle of a off body restoration of a 74 vert. I chose to pull the body off due to the amount of rust on the pans, and on almost everything else I could see. Anyway I found a sand blasted frame with new pans. I restored the entire brake assembly; sand blasted all of the suspension and replaced all of the bushings. So, in short the chassis, engine and tranny is ready to go.
I had a guy come and look at the body. The rust is bad, real bad. The bulk head is bad and every thing it touches and a lot of other places too. The under body has been patched quite a bit. The only thing that has been replaced is the rails and they are heavy duty.
Here’s my question. With so much rust, do I scrap the body? I hate to do that, but I am not sure where to start. The prior owner covered a lot of it up with bondo and a lot of paint. The exterior is slick and looks great as long as you don’t look underneath. I have a torch and welder, but the bulk head? That’s major right? I have a 74 hard top, does that help or do I buy all the replacement parts new?
Any guidance would be appreciated.

[Detroit73Super]

What exactly do you mean by bulkhead ?? Look here http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new...sheet_metal.cfm repair panels are relatively inexpensive. And if you have a same year (Sedan though) donor car, alot will be the same. Price out body panels, and if you decide to move forward, have body media blasted, should cost maybe $350-$500




GOOD LUCK !!! 'Verts are very cool!!!!

This post has been edited by Detroit73Super: Feb 6 2010, 02:35

[Coreyrocknroll]

Item number 18. Front cross panel

This post has been edited by Coreyrocknroll: Feb 6 2010, 02:49

[Detroit73Super]

Item number 18. Front cross panel

Well you're in luck, it's $135.00 brand new or use your donor, should be the same (I'm not 100%) and that's a commonly replaced part. Maybe post some pics and what you think is "bad" we'll prob. tell you "looks great" !!

[Coreyrocknroll]

I will snap some pics in the morning and try to get them on line for you to see. There will be several parts to replace.
PS your body looks great! The car body that is lol...

This post has been edited by Coreyrocknroll: Feb 6 2010, 03:01

[Coreyrocknroll]

Take a look and tell me what you think

http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Coreyrocknroll

Thanks Corey

Pics were downloaded to Image Shack Album (13 pictures)

[smbrewer]

I don't see any images there....

[Coreyrocknroll]

Try it now.

Thanks Corey

[smbrewer]

yeah, you got the "C" word there... could be worse though; check out what 51reutter is doing: http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/forum/inde...showtopic=11319

[Coreyrocknroll]

So the task is not impossible. Now, where do I start? And I guess I am better off purchasing replacement parts than pulling them off of a donor? Seems like that would be much easier, and my donor does have some front end body damage too. I have been reading about doing a section at a time so a bit of accomplishment is felt after the section is done. I'm good with that. I there a good how to video for complete underbody repair? And where is the best place for all of my part needs? Sorry for so many questions, my rookie colors are shining through!

Thanks again

[Detroit73Super]

Donor parts are always better when available. Wolfsburg West has good metal. I've bought parts from various places and have had good luck. You gotta check out the other vert build in Europe as earlier suggested. You will get A TON of info within that thread, and I'm sure he'll answer any of your questions.

[smbrewer]

Donor parts are always better when available...

I agree with one qualifier -- as long as they are in OG condition; meaning straight and all there, surface rust is OK.

The new front quarters for my bug are Danish made, usually the best quality after OG, but they are giving me BIG problems with fitment as they just didn't come from the same molds as the rest of my car. I'm going to have to fill some gaps up to 1/8" because the bends just aren't right and there's just not enough metal in the new part to stretch. I'll have some new picks in my front cap thread showing what I'm talking about soon.

[Detroit73Super]

I agree with one qualifier -- as long as they are in OG condition; meaning straight and all there, surface rust is OK.

The new front quarters for my bug are Danish made, usually the best quality after OG, but they are giving me BIG problems with fitment as they just didn't come from the same molds as the rest of my car. I'm going to have to fill some gaps up to 1/8" because the bends just aren't right and there's just not enough metal in the new part to stretch. I'll have some new picks in my front cap thread showing what I'm talking about soon.

I was starting to wonder abgout your progress ....you'll get er done..

[Coreyrocknroll]

So when it comes to getting started, what is the best way to remove the donor parts? I have heard air chisels, torches, etc... Also like on the front cross panel, isn't it welded in solid? I would think removal would be very difficult without damaging the part?!?!? Please excuse my rookie thoughts....... Any insite would be appreciated. Thanks again.

[smbrewer]

So when it comes to getting started, what is the best way to remove the donor parts? I have heard air chisels, torches, etc... Also like on the front cross panel, isn't it welded in solid? I would think removal would be very difficult without damaging the part?!?!? Please excuse my rookie thoughts....... Any insite would be appreciated. Thanks again.

really it depends on the part, sawsall will give a smoother edge than chisel... spotweld cutter better than hammer. What you want is the least distortion to the donor part, with the easiest edge to fit to your existing parts. I wish it were as easy as a blanket answer, but it isn't. Just remember to look at what you want, wait at least a day before removing it, look again before proceeding. I can't tell you how many times I've dove into a project only to figure out after I've started that there was a better/easier way. A carpenter will tell you to measure twice and cut once... that's all I'm saying.