Tubular Front Control Arms For Superbeetles

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Posted

Finally finished my tubular front control arms for my Superbeetle(1303).

a5c4ee87-1efd-4afa-b62b-cb698b27115b_zps

This version allows for 25mm roll centre correction. Made in Chromoly.

Length is adjustable from 0-+50mm wider than stock.

3/4" Chromoly Heim joints at both ends.

Would anyone be interested in a set?

3f4a7a3e-68fa-4df5-a4ad-40c16081282d_zps

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Posted (edited)

Hi

Maybe but I cant see the pictures, edit I can see them now that I've replied

Steve

Edited by Steve C

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Posted

yes please,

with the adapters like I see there,

are those to the porsche 944 spindles (17mm pinch spline?)

How much?

thanks, matt

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Posted

yes please,

with the adapters like I see there,

are those to the porsche 944 spindles (17mm pinch spline?)

How much?

thanks, matt

Yes I am using Porsche 944 spindles. I can make it with a 17mm or 15mm spline. Also customer can specifiy overall length and roll centre correction.

Price will be approx. $500CAD for a pair. Includes everything for bolt on application. Email volksfolks@hotmail.com for more info.

Thanks

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Posted

well mine is running the p944 spindles, but I'll have to save up to aford this mod. lol

m

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Posted (edited)

I know this post is over 2 years old but I would love a tubular front control arm kit for my 75 1303 (when I get it) are the still available and how do the kit affect the handling  

Edited by Ben Dordoy

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Posted

This particular guy changed his front suspension configuration and repurposed those arms for another part of his suspension, however, I've seen him say a time or two he was thinking about doing a limited run of those.

The nicest looking arms I've ever seen of the factory style are these:

Image

Which I found in this build thread:  http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=8161&sid=4cfbdecd9b6ed6c2073a6949bc75d1ce

But they are one-offs.  I believe I read, if he gets enough demand he might build some to sell.

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Posted

thanks H2OSB I'm not relay concerned about any aftermarket front suspension parts looking the factory parts or looking nice  I just want to upgrade my 1303s front suspension which will improve the handling because once I have restored/customized my 1303 I be my daily driver and want to improve the handling as much as possible to make it safer and more fun to drive          

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Posted

Makes sense.  I feel the same way.  I really want to find a way to isolate the sway bar out of the suspension such that all it does is sway bar duty.  That said, though the control arms in the pic above look very blingy, what the guy did was elongate the ball joint and thus eliminated all bump steer on a lowered car.  If you look through the picture on his build page, you'll see a picture of the car with his tie rods and control arms mounted on the car, they are perfectly parrallel.

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Posted

I like these better.

image.jpeg

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Posted

In the next year or two I am going to attempt to replace the control arms with tubular arms with heim joints and eliminate the sway bar.  At the same time I want to narrow the front end, lower it more, and move the inner control arm mounts above the frame so they will be closer to parallel.  I have been planning it for a while now if this sounds familiar................

 

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Posted

I thought you did the sway bar already, or at least you and a mock-up picture.

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Posted

I have got a better idea to lower my 1303 and improve it's handling which is to fit a Mendeola True Performance S-2 (double wishbone/double A arm) Front Suspension Kit and a Mendeola True Track rear suspension kit this is the most expensive way to lower my 1303 and improve it's handling but is the best way because this set up will work better than any combo of aftermarket and OME suspension parts ever will 

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Posted (edited)

Before you go too far with the Mendeola suspension, be sure you research it thoroughly.  I am not suggesting the suspension doesn't work, but I have yet to see any published work detailing how the Mendeola suspension stacks up to a well tuned factory style set up.  I would hate to see someone spend all the money required to have that all installed only to find it doesn't make any real improvement.  Just sayin'.

Edited by H2OSB
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Posted

$ for $ its hard to beat a well setup strut system, most of these systems are fitted to standard Beetles so they are starting at very low base.

I worry about the welded spindles in the Mendeola setup 

I think I would rather put the money saved into making the car go instead

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Posted

Before you go too far with the Mendeola suspension, be sure you research it thoroughly.  I am not suggesting the suspension doesn't work, but I have yet to see any published work detailing how the Mendeola suspension stacks up to a well tuned factory style set up.  I would hate to see someone spend all the money required to have that all installed only to find it doesn't make any real improvement.  Just sayin'.

I tired to research how the Mendeola suspension stacks up to a well tuned factory style set up and had no luck but I did find a another on topic here (Thoughts On Mendeola Super A-arm Suspension) I read through it and I like your idea of replacing the front stock control arm with a "Y" front shaped control arm and i now think that a Mendeola Super A-arm Suspension would be more suitably for beach buggy or kit car based on a 1302/1303 chassis which don't have any mounts for the stock macpherson struts and so I just use all the topline.com vw super lowing kit parts for the 74 and later 1303s         

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Posted

The Porsche 924/944/968 suspension IS from the 1303, if you want to do the A-arm just do it like Porsche did to their car. Also, have a look at the Golf I front arms because it's the same. The basic suspension of the 1303 is the same from the 1973 VW 1303 to the 1985 Porsche 944 up to the 1995 Porsche 968, if VW and Porsche used it for that long it's good enough and they used it in racing applications as well.

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Posted

The Porsche 924/944/968 suspension IS from the 1303, if you want to do the A-arm just do it like Porsche did to their car. Also, have a look at the Golf I front arms because it's the same. The basic suspension of the 1303 is the same from the 1973 VW 1303 to the 1985 Porsche 944 up to the 1995 Porsche 968, if VW and Porsche used it for that long it's good enough and they used it in racing applications as well.

cool thanks for the tip I've made my own rough design for a set of tubular front A-arms for the 74 on 1303s with press in bull joints cause that the year of 1303 I want cause cars made in and before 1974 are exempt for uk road tax and hopefully I will be able to find the rack and pinion parts from a 75+ so i can upgrade my further 1303 to rack and pinion steering    

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Posted

I believe the cars made in Europe already had R&P steering in 1974. I'm not sure if that differs betwixt the UK and mainland Europe.  It was just us here in the States who had to wait until '75.  Also not sure about the ROW.

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Posted

one year only in 75 down here

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Posted (edited)

I believe the cars made in Europe already had R&P steering in 1974. I'm not sure if that differs betwixt the UK and mainland Europe.  It was just us here in the States who had to wait until '75.  Also not sure about the ROW.

Ok but that doesn't matter as i want to get one from California because a 1303 from there would be mostly rust free and one from the UK or Europe may look mostly rust free but once striped to the bare metal it could end up looking like Swiss cheese full of holes and could be to far gone to be worth restoring or I could one from Australia so would be mostly rust free and right hand drive instead of left hand drive but shipping may cost more due to the grater distance it would have to travel to get to the UK      

Edited by Ben Dordoy
spilling masitake

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Posted

I'm CERTAIN you could find a close to rust free car much closer to home.  What would it cost to ship a car from Cali to the UK?

Don't be fooled into believing cars from California are all rust free.  If you come here hoping for that, you'll end up very disappointed.  To be sure, most cars here have no where near the rust found on some of the awesome restos I've seen on the various websites I get on, but completely rust free cars are not common here.  I got very lucky by purchasing my '74 Super from the town of Mojave (mo-hah-vee) in the Mojave desert.  Nuturally, living its entire life in the desert, it saw little moisture and therefore has no rust, however, my son's '74 was not so lucky and had rusted out floor pans (now replaced, but you could literally see the ground through the floor in 3 places) and the typical body perforations behind the quarter windows caused by the "foam of death".  Perhaps you could start your search in the desert area and find a decent car, however, I would advise you avoid the coast as the salty air wreaks havoc on all car sheet metal...not just VWs.

I, too, want R&P steering in my car, but I'm not sure how much I want to mod my car just to get it.  SteveC is the resident expert on retrofitting R&P into cars that didn't have it and if I ultimately decide I must have it, I will be peppering Steve with questions (kinda like I already do.  ;)   ), but I'm going to first try rebuilding the spare steering box I have and give that a go.  Many who have installed R&P says it's an incredible upgrade, however, at the same time many who have well built factory boxes say they work very well.

Good luck in your search.

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Posted

rust free Beetles are few and far between in Australia, my 73 was in storage from 1983 until 2002 when I got and was just about rust free, had a little bit in left inner fender where the seam is above the pan

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Posted (edited)

I have got a better idea to lower my 1303 and improve it's handling which is to fit a Mendeola True Performance S-2 (double wishbone/double A arm) Front Suspension Kit and a Mendeola True Track rear suspension kit this is the most expensive way to lower my 1303 and improve it's handling but is the best way because this set up will work better than any combo of aftermarket and OME suspension parts ever will 

yes you'll be able to build a LeMans winner by looking at pictures on the interwebs!

Edited by VWCOOL
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Posted

I'm CERTAIN you could find a close to rust free car much closer to home.  What would it cost to ship a car from Cali to the UK?

Don't be fooled into believing cars from California are all rust free.  If you come here hoping for that, you'll end up very disappointed.  To be sure, most cars here have no where near the rust found on some of the awesome restos I've seen on the various websites I get on, but completely rust free cars are not common here.  I got very lucky by purchasing my '74 Super from the town of Mojave (mo-hah-vee) in the Mojave desert.  Nuturally, living its entire life in the desert, it saw little moisture and therefore has no rust, however, my son's '74 was not so lucky and had rusted out floor pans (now replaced, but you could literally see the ground through the floor in 3 places) and the typical body perforations behind the quarter windows caused by the "foam of death".  Perhaps you could start your search in the desert area and find a decent car, however, I would advise you avoid the coast as the salty air wreaks havoc on all car sheet metal...not just VWs.

I, too, want R&P steering in my car, but I'm not sure how much I want to mod my car just to get it.  SteveC is the resident expert on retrofitting R&P into cars that didn't have it and if I ultimately decide I must have it, I will be peppering Steve with questions (kinda like I already do.  ;)   ), but I'm going to first try rebuilding the spare steering box I have and give that a go.  Many who have installed R&P says it's an incredible upgrade, however, at the same time many who have well built factory boxes say they work very well.

Good luck in your search.

I want a left hand drive 1303 cause i don't like the O.M.E dash and i want to replace it with a porshce 911 style dashboard which are only made for left hand drive cars and the company's that make don't have the molds to me a right hand drive version I would like to fit a unique parts extended clutch pedal shaft kit which is a better design the the O.M.E counter part (the right hand drive clutch pedal shafts have the same design flaw as the left hand drive ones) so will be cheaper in the long run as I will never need replace the clutch shaft that is if i could find one as the ones I found for seal are second hand. anyway i will buy one that is fully restore and 1303 are few and far between in in the UK and Europe in fact i could only available find 20 for sale and have look alot of different UK based websties and I look the US based site classiccar.com which have 65 available for sale which just one website

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Posted (edited)

I have got a better idea to lower my 1303 and improve it's handling which is to fit a Mendeola True Performance S-2 (double wishbone/double A arm) Front Suspension Kit and a Mendeola True Track rear suspension kit this is the most expensive way to lower my 1303 and improve it's handling but is the best way because this set up will work better than any combo of aftermarket and OME suspension parts ever will 

yes you'll be able to build a LeMans winner by looking at pictures on the interwebs!

I've changed my mind about that due to the price of the kits about $6000 to get both I and the isn't any info about how the Mendeola suspension stacks up to a well tuned factory set up so i may be wrong so please don't take my word for it also it only cost about $1000 to buy all the parts to lower and upgrade a 1303 front suspension with all the parts available on top line parts.com so it may only cost about $3000 to upgrade and lower the stock front and rebuild the rear suspension to a similar spec and the money saved you use to make other improves to your car    

Edited by Ben Dordoy
made a mistake
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Posted

I love to dream, it's great, but you do realize that everything you've said so far adds up to a (US) $60,000+ car and that's if you do most of the work yourself. I'll have about $20,000 in mine and I think that is too much for a car that the faster it goes the more unsafe it will become no matter what is done to it.

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Posted (edited)

I love to dream, it's great, but you do realize that everything you've said so far adds up to a (US) $60,000+ car and that's if you do most of the work yourself. I'll have about $20,000 in mine and I think that is too much for a car that the faster it goes the more unsafe it will become no matter what is done to it.

I do know it will cost well over ten times the 1303s value to restore and upgrade a it but I'm going to keep the car once i restored it and if i wanted to restore car to sell i would choose a car the worth a lot more that it would cost to buy and just fully restore it so i could make a profit i would buy one that just need a bit work too fully restore it anyway what classic cars are safe compared to the modern cars but that the fun part of owning and driving a classic car and i will do all of the reiteration work I can do myself however I'm think of buy a fully restore 1303 anyway so all i would need to do registered insure and put it through a MOT test so i would need to do the mod i want to do that way i would save money on delivery charges cause I could pick up the parts I can in buy in the UK depending on the flue cost and the size and amount of parts i can fit a trailer and the front and rear trunks and I'll sale all of the O.M.E parts i replace with aftermarket parts that i can I probable wont get a lot money of the O.M.E parts but every little helps 

Edited by Ben Dordoy

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Posted

Okay, sounds fun and I can't wait to see it. Also, by the way, that's a run-on sentence. lol

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Posted

Okay, sounds fun and I can't wait to see it. Also, by the way, that's a run-on sentence. lol

what do you mean by that's a run-on sentence

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Posted

not

using

the

enter

key

it makes what you wrote very hard to read

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Posted

A run-on sentence is when you do not use punctuation to abbreviate the sentence thus it just goes on as one big long flowing sentence with no starting or stopping points for the reader to pause and retain the idea that you are trying to communicate and usually the reader will have to stop and reread a few words to try and find where the sentence should and should not start or stop because there are no periods or commas or any punctuation marks at all and it just looks like it keeps going and going thus giving the reader a headache and an inability to focus on the point you're trying to get across because several ideas are just jumbled into one long continuous sentence that seems to have no beginning no middle and no end and there you have it what you have just read or have tired to read and probably had to reread a few times to ascertain what is being said well that my friend is an example of a run-on sentence but oh well it's better than TYPING IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS BECAUSE THAT GIVES ME AN EVEN WORSE HEADACHE BUT I GUESS A RUN-ON SENTENCE IN ALL CAPITALS WOULD BE EVEN WORSE LOL

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Posted

A run-on sentence is when you do not use punctuation to abbreviate the sentence thus it just goes on as one big long flowing sentence with no starting or stopping points for the reader to pause and retain the idea that you are trying to communicate and usually the reader will have to stop and reread a few words to try and find where the sentence should and should not start or stop because there are no periods or commas or any punctuation marks at all and it just looks like it keeps going and going thus giving the reader a headache and an inability to focus on the point you're trying to get across because several ideas are just jumbled into one long continuous sentence that seems to have no beginning no middle and no end and there you have it what you have just read or have tired to read and probably had to reread a few times to ascertain what is being said well that my friend is an example of a run-on sentence but oh well it's better than TYPING IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS BECAUSE THAT GIVES ME AN EVEN WORSE HEADACHE BUT I GUESS A RUN-ON SENTENCE IN ALL CAPITALS WOULD BE EVEN WORSE LOL

This is the best thing I've read in a long time, lol ?

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Posted

Ok back on topic...

What are the advantages of separating the sway-bar and stay-bar roles?

And... can someone explain... how to "go to first unread post' on this new site?
It's annoying being directed to the first page of posts, rather than the last...

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

On my phone I click right below the avatar of the last person who posted. It will say the time elapsed since latest post.

Edited by Chisel86

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Posted

It's the dot or star next to the topic's subject. The star if you have posted in the thread and a dot if not. That's for the computer.

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Posted (edited)

The Porsche 924/944/968 suspension IS from the 1303, if you want to do the A-arm just do it like Porsche did to their car. Also, have a look at the Golf I front arms because it's the same. The basic suspension of the 1303 is the same from the 1973 VW 1303 to the 1985 Porsche 944 up to the 1995 Porsche 968, if VW and Porsche used it for that long it's good enough and they used it in racing applications as well.

cool thanks for the tip I've made my own rough design for a set of tubular front A-arms for the 74 on 1303s with press in bull joints cause that the year of 1303 I want cause cars made in and before 1974 are exempt for uk road tax and hopefully I will be able to find the rack and pinion parts from a 75+ so i can upgrade my further 1303 to rack and pinion steering    

I've done some more research and found out from April this year the UK historic vehicle tax exemption year changes from cars made before 1/1/1975 to 1/1/1976 and this changes ever april, so i will buy a 1975 1303 sedan instead of a 1974 for tree reason one they already have rack & pinon from the factory, two have fuel injection, so will be easy to put a 2.3 l type 4 with a fitted with CB permanence efi kit and tree i will save my self a bit of time and money by not needing to find, buy, fit everything and do the all mods needed to mount R&P on a 74 1303. 

Edited by Ben Dordoy
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Posted (edited)

I did it a bit different on my sons 71, I used the early forged steel arms and turned the ends into clamps for the Mk1 Golf ball joints the 944 spindles want.

Made them a bit longer while at it, so that camber is zero when the adjuster is ~all the way in.

As an added bonus, you can flip the arms and it moves the sway bar hole down ~3/4", so it apparently no longer interferes with the tie rod when lowered.

I just swapped the 944 and SB strut tops.

I'll try and figure out how to post the pic here, they are in a thread on the STF..

 

BTW: Coleman Racing can make custom tubular suspension links ... I have seen setups listed that are far more complex that what's pictured in this thread for $75.

 

Edited by Piledriver
context

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Posted (edited)

I did it a bit different on my sons 71, I used the early forged steel arms and turned the ends into clamps for the Mk1 Golf ball joints the 944 spindles want.

Made them a bit longer while at it, so that camber is zero when the adjuster is ~all the way in.

As an added bonus, you can flip the arms and it moves the sway bar hole down ~3/4", so it apparently no longer interferes with the tie rod when lowered.

I just swapped the 944 and SB strut tops.

I'll try and figure out how to post the pic here, they are in a thread on the STF..

 

BTW: Coleman Racing can make custom tubular suspension links ... I have seen setups listed that are far more complex that what's pictured in this thread for $75.

 

I'd like to see pictures of this, and I'm sure others would as well. You can link a picture from another site using the "chain link" button. Paid members are allowed to host pictures directly on this site. Thanks!

Edited by Chisel86

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Posted

I did it a bit different on my sons 71, I used the early forged steel arms and turned the ends into clamps for the Mk1 Golf ball joints the 944 spindles want.

Made them a bit longer while at it, so that camber is zero when the adjuster is ~all the way in.

As an added bonus, you can flip the arms and it moves the sway bar hole down ~3/4", so it apparently no longer interferes with the tie rod when lowered.

I just swapped the 944 and SB strut tops.

I'll try and figure out how to post the pic here, they are in a thread on the STF..

 

BTW: Coleman Racing can make custom tubular suspension links ... I have seen setups listed that are far more complex that what's pictured in this thread for $75.

 

I'd like to see pictures of this, and I'm sure others would as well. You can link a picture from another site using the "chain link" button. Paid members are allowed to host pictures directly on this site. Thanks!

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/download/file.php?id=17530

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